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it seems like mere months ago since these peculiar rooms at berlin’s heckmann höfe housed the restaurant ross. that is because – it is. the new owners have given the place a thorough redo, replacing the cool industrial chic of the ultimately hapless ross with a cozy atmosphere rich with historic details. what is still in place at night kitchen, though, is the idea of sharing, although its idea of shared plates is less conceptual than the ross’s shared cuisine. “it’s about experiencing things together”, says owner gilad heimann. “our philosophy of togetherness and the casual atmosphere of friends coming together for an evening over shared plates really contribute to the overall experience.”

the food is easier, too, touching up basics of the western mediterranean regions with a hint of middle eastern cuisine. we tried the pizza-size tomato carpaccio (tulum cheese eggplant puree | crispy quinoa | olive powder) and the beetroot salad (french goat cheese | pickled kohlrabi | walnuts | basil hazelnut vinaigrette) as starters, both of which were hands down no-frills snacks. the mains are more intense, with the octopus (jerusalem artichoke | green pea-arugula-horseradish puree | macadamia nuts) and the deliciously tender hanger steak (with a raviolo of onion jam and dijon) taking the price home. our choice for desert: the coffee crumble-topped tiramisu (blueberry-rum compote | green peppercorn) – served in a terracotta plant pot!