the most recent addition to the estonian hospitality scene comes in surprising form and place: in obinitsa, a speedy hour on little used country roads south of tartu, the country’s second city and this year’s european capital of cultural (alongside bad ischl and bodø), artist couple lenna kuurmaa and lauri mäesepp have turned a long disregarded former school-church originally opened in 1904 into ilmaveere, a 12-room, rustic luxury boutique hotel along with a restaurant helmed by merino lastik offering a vegan menu as well. the whole place is rich with enough hidden secrets to uncover for a long weekend in hiding. that jar of honey at the bar? only one way to find out! these are our favorite shots …